Day 19 - Kenora ON (811 km):

After 9 hours of riding across the remainder of the Prairies, we agree the big news today was the dreadful wind coming at our hind quarter. And I'm voting for road construction as well.

We left Grace's at 0730h, which is her normal time to leave for the office. It was variably cloudy and 15 degrees. We rode toward what appeared to be a low-lying, very dark cloud cover but there was no precipiation for a change; the temperature dropped to 12 degrees once we were out of the sunshine. We rode like crazy toward a clear patch of sky and when the cloud cover finally cleared, we were in a tremendous rear/cross wind. We both got tossed around pretty good for a long time. Picture sustained Tantramar Marshes conditions for many miles instead of the kilometer or so of strong wind that we might have there. For the first time, it was more than a fleeting thought that I'd have rather been in a car. But then I thought: "no! I could ride pillion on a big ol' 'wing!" But Jim figures ANY mode of travel would have been miserable in that wind. Perhaps the worst thing about the wind (once I relaxed and eased up on my death grip of the handlebars) was that we both were chilly even though the temperature gradually climbed from 12 to 19. It was hard to get comfortable and I used the breakfast break to add my fleece layer.

We stopped for breakfast around 0930h at Moosomin SK. It was a neat family restaurant but GREASY! I ordered french toast with well-done sausage (which I have once or twice a year) and panfries. I ate one or two slices of french toast, 2 of the 3 little sausages and a couple of bites of the "shredded, deep-fried patty" type of affair that was the panfries. And that stayed with me all day. Yuck :( About the only exercise I'm getting these days is walking from the bike to a motel room and squatting over T Horton toilet seats. I never thought I'd see the day when I'd miss exercising !

Soon after that stop, we hit the Manitoba boundary and Central Time. Saskatchewan does not observe Daylight Savings Time so our time didn't change until MB. Time will change again tomorrow at Thunder Bay when we hit Eastern Time.

The scenery was pretty much the same as yesterday - except, perhaps, more consistently flat, if that's possible. At one point later in the day, we hit a little sharper lefthand curve in the road and I was actually caught off guard!

Brandon, MB was on our route today - just before Winnipeg. I have a soft spot for Brandon as a nursing classmate and former colleague, Jill M, lives there with her husband, who transferred here with McCains, and there weeks-old baby. By the time we got to Brandon, the temperature was sufficiently high that I was now too hot with the fleece and I had to pull over to remove it. The wind was still howling and there was a little dust storm going on. As I pulled off the highway and started to turn right onto a service road, a car cut me off - pulling alongside and then turning rightalso - across my path. I was going slowly and anticipated it so no harm done. Costume adjustment completed, we hit the road again and pulled up to an intersection on the highway. Light turned green and Jim pulled away quickly - as he does. No big noise, just a fast, efficient forward motion. After being nailed in the Volvo a couple of years ago by an elderly guy running a red light, I'm a bit of a slowpoke through intersections. I noticed the young guy in the car beside me shake his head and chuckle - presumably at Jim's getaway. We both got through the intersection and caught up with Jim, and Buddy cruised by in the outside lane. He had a sunroof open and as he got by us, up popped his hand through the sunroof in a 2-finger salute (index and pinkie). Jim waved back and I'll go with his interpretation that Buddy was bringing us greetings from the town of Brandon :-)

We totally bypassed Winnipeg by taking hwy 100 east toward Kenora. It eventually became highway 1 again. The landscape changed soon thereafter from totally flat and green to more trees and some hills. We hit a long stretch of construction (at least 15 km +) where there was active work going on and traffic was down to one lane. There had been another long stretch (kms long) somwhere before Brandon; 'zippered' asphalt - where the asphalt is removed for recycling and paving. Traffic moved along this stretch well but I did catch my front wheel a few times which tended to slow me down - momentarily. On another stretch of road, we rode on new, unpainted asphalt (I think that was today!?) and 50 km from Kenora, we hit the worst of it. There was rough gravel, zippered asphalt AND new pavement. Lots of equipment around, lots of traffic including big trucks, and no water applied to keep dust down. We both washed our faces when we checked into our Comfort Inn room (smoking - aargh; which was the only left with 2 beds but we have a sliding glass door and the bikes are parked right outside the door) and I'm sure the housekeeping staff will think we washed our bikes with the washcloths! Essentially, we sampled every stage of highway construction today - and in no small doses of any of it.

Just before Winnipeg, there was a huge lot at the side of the highway with neatly stacked "somethings" which I soon figured out were hay bales. The stacks were spread quite a way along but they got progressively more messy and smaller. And clearly, the hay was very deteriorated and not fit for consumption. I did a quick Google search but can't find info about it. Jim thinks it may be leftovers from an urgent call for hay a year or so (or more) ago due to animals starving because of flooding - or some other disaster. Interesting.

So... between wind, construction and a respectable 811 km covered, I'm just about done in. My ischial tuberosities were protesting loudly today, too. I was pleased that yesterday was relatively 'pain' free. It's not pain per se; I don't know how to describe it. Very uncomfortable. About 70 km from Kenora, I pulled Jim over and I had a stretch and a bottle of water. Both of which revived me sufficiently to get to Kenora. We had to ride back 'downtown' for dinner after we checked in and I was so tired, Jim offered to take me on his bike. But it's character building for to soldier on so I rode my own ;-). Plus, we topped up our gas while we were out so we'll be ready to roll as soon as we get on the bikes in the morning. A note about dinner. This place (Plaza?) serves up greek food, has been in town for 38 years and has all these Recommended Where to Eat in Canada for many years. How far wrong could we go ? I was hungry for souvlaki and they even have that lemon soup (refer to Halcyon Spa post) on the menu. Big disappointment from the soup (tangy but not lemony and hardly any other flavour as well) to salad (bottled dressing, I think?) and the souvlaki - not nearly as flavourable as Dimitris and overcooked. I can't wait to tuck into a Dimitris chicken souvlaki!

Tomorrow, we're planning on an EARLY start - 0700h. We'll lose another hour at Thunder Bay and we're going to try to get to Wawa - about 1000km. I suspect there may be internet issues for the next day or so, therefore don't be alarmed if there's no post tomorrow night.

I see we have a new Follower! Hello to Lucie & Jeff in Calgary :-)

I'm sure there's more. I compose such a great post on the road but sitting here in the motel room, my brain goes to mush.

If we continue to have good weather and my butt can take it, we'll be home in time for a Running of the Hounds on Saturday and/or a bicycle ride on Sunday morning (ie Friday night). But that requires 3 very heavy days. We'll see.

ps: Jan - I didn't get back to you about dinner. Yes, lobster and Angus would be grand but to be honest about it, I've been eating beef since we hit South Dakota. I'm surprised I haven't developed gout! I'm thinking roast chicken/turkey - with gravy and dressing. No need for dessert. However.... those ginger cookies you packed up for us were very yummy ;-)

pps: Mary & Tom - I'm sorry to have missed you on the return trip. Until you're better thanked, it was my pleasure to meet you both AND the beautiful and accomplished Ellen.